Jewelry Q & A

Platinum Unique Engagement Ring?

Q.I was wondering if anyone had simple, classic looking rings which were just a tiny bit different from the popular Tiffany setting. I love round brialliant stones and very simple settings, but want something just a little bit different from the classic Tiffany. We've looked at like every site on the internet, tons of stores, etc, but just can't find anything that really jumps out at us and says, "THIS IS IT". I am beginning to wonder if one just can't get "unique" without adding too much "stuff" (which I don't want to do)? That may be the case, but thought I'd ask out there to see if anyone had any suggestions.

A.What I've got is a variation on the Tiffany setting. It's called something like a "basket" setting-I think. My fiancé picked it out, so I never got to ask the jeweler much about it. Basically, what it is is a thin gold band (2mm I think) with a platinum box-type setting. It holds the stone (round cut) up high so that light can get in. The 4 sides are done in a very pretty design-almost like what you might find on a decorative front gate-only much smaller =). The diamond has a platinum "collar" around it which makes it look more like .5 carats than .35 and it is held in place by 4 small platinum prongs. I have gotten many compliments on my ring--it really is stunning. When you look at it straight on it looks at first like your garden-variety solitaire, but it really is unusual. Try going into a reputable local jeweler and describe what you are looking for. The mall stores are likely to just have either regular Tiffany settings or stuff that's totally unlike them. Brian told me that the store he went to had many photographs of variations on the Tiffany setting. You may just have to do some footwork on this one. It sounds like you're having the same experience I had. The classic Tiffany setting doesn't do it for me, but the rings I was seeing in the stores were just too overdone for my taste. I ended up with a very pretty ring that has a larger round center stone and two small flanking round stones. The diamonds are held in 4-prong U-shaped settings. You can play with the size of the center stone and the size of the smaller stones to get the effect you want. A much smaller flanking stone can emphasize the size of the center stone, while flanking stones that are a little bigger can make the center stone blend into the line a little more. I also considered having three stones all the same size (maybe half-carat) all in a row. It can be hard to find three stones that match closely, though, in color and cut characteristics. (But it is a pretty, pretty ring if you can manage it.) This presumes that you will go to a jeweler who sells you stones and then creates the ring using the setting of your choice, rather than making up rings ahead of time. According to the jeweler we went to you should never buy a diamond already in a setting, since you can't know for sure about the inclusions or the true weight without taking it out of the setting. Going the "buy the stones and have them set" route is probably no more expensive than buying a ready-made ring, and you do end up getting exactly what you want. There's a wonderful web site called, I think, www.tradeshop.com that gives excellent advice on the 4 C's. It is especially good in its explanation of the ideal cut, which can affect the beauty of the diamond far more than, say, the clarity of the stone. My ring has an antique setting from around the turn of the century. It's got a platinum band, one center stone (square cut, about .5 carats) and two very small stones - one on either side, rectangular shaped, sitting in the band (beveled?). The center stone is raised, but not in a Tiffany setting. The 4 prongs wrap around the ring - holding it in snuggly. I had wanted a smaller stone with a setting that didn't stick out so much - this one doesn't stand up *that* much, but given my tendency to bang into things, it sticks up more than I'd like. It is, however, the perfect ring. I definitely wanted an antique looking ring - because I prefer the style and strongly dislike the solitaire/tiffany setting. We went to a lot of places to look, but in the standard jewelry shops, never saw anything I really liked. When possible, I found myself always drawn to the small case of antique/estate rings, as did S.. We ended up getting mine at an antique shop that had a special jeweler. It was definitely *it* when I saw it. Unfortunately it was slightly above our budget, but S. was able to bargain with the jeweler to bring it to just under budget. A number of people have asked if it's a family heirloom - we wish, but are happy to make it one now! It is a "second hand" ring, but I like to think of it as antique instead ....and it works for us, since S. never buys anything new, always second hand.

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