Jewelry Q & A

Designing Engagement Ring -Tension Set Diamonds suggestions?

Q.Designing Engagement Ring -Tension Set Diamonds suggestions?

A.I am in the process of designing our own engagement ring and I am looking for some suggestions from other designers or jewellers with experience in tension set/mount ring design. I love the modern feel of the claw-less mounting, but am concerned as to the stability of the diamond. I am told that I need platinum as the material so there is little or no give - but also as a result, the ring cannot be sized later on, so the fitting is crucial. It is planned as a surprise for her, so a prior fitting is impossible, the best I can hope for is to take one of her rings in which fits the right finger for a sizing. What is the margin or error that I can expect from a sizing derived from an existing ring? I realize I can give her something inplace of the real ring, then have her come in for a fitting - but I want this to be special and romantic. I love the clean non-tradition design opportunities that this mount offers, are there any other ways of mounting a diamond that leaves as much of it exposed as possible? I am an architect, so I tend to prefer cleaner, modern, and elegant solutions. I would welcome any and all thoughts especially design directions. have you opened a can of worms in this news group.;) Here we go again folks. I'll sit back and enjoy reading the responses you get on this one. Tension have been made is steel, 14k, 18k(for those who say that 18k is too soft and scratches too easily);) and platinum. - but also as a result, the ring cannot be sized This is true. To size a properly executed tension ring. Sizing is a very long and labor intensive process. The sky is the limit. Tensions tend to be a little heavier that a tradional ring, so it is hard to guess. If you don't feel comfortable with tension you can still get a clean look from channel setting, bezel setting or gypsy. Design the concept and then look for the best process to fit the design. Not the other way around. Just don't get hung up on the technology. Tension setting is a very cool look, and it is also a real problem to service later should the need arrise. I think Stephen Kretchmer is about the only one I know with the metalurgy background to actually pull off this design with the tension in the metal, and returning to the factory is recommended by this ole' tradeshopper when it comes time to compensate for the gal eatten to many brownies :) Watch out for this design, not many can make it safely... If yer local store commissions a local shop to crank one out you might well end up having more problems than the McDoogals and Clinton... I have always believed that designs should always be servicable in the future, and that strength and common sense should never be set aside for "unusual and different"... My advise is that if you truly love this look, buy a ring of Stephen Kretchmers and enjoy it, but don't have local talent do what they can, this depends on very sophisticated hardening processes than few can do... We built a very wonderful ring of the channelset/tension set look, but also built the ring with a bridge below the stone to connect the rails,ring... If the circle isn't completely closed it's not nearly as safe,

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